I made this Wams and matching pair of Hosen using heavily revised patterns from reconstructinghistory.com, as well as period woodcuts for reference.
It was all made using 100% wool and different qualities of linen.
The back and front of the Wams, as well as the 'brustfleck' are four layers thick. Two layers of wool: one outer layer, and one to show through the slashes, and then two players of linen. Had some coarse linen left over from my last project that I used for added structure. The interior is lined with a much finer linen that I bought particularly for this project. The sleeves are not lined. It makes for a pretty heavy piece of clothing, but it's amazingly comfortable to wear.
The Hosen are two layers of wool (even the black leg without much slashing is two complete layers), and a 'seat' of linen. The legs aren't lined, as I felt the garment was already heavy enough as it was. They were an absolute nightmare to make. I had the idea that I was going to make the left (yellow) leg detachable, but in the end I decided against it, as I wasn't sure everyone else would appreciate just how dandy it would have been (I might make a pair of spare shorts some time)! Despite it all, the Hosen are pretty similar to my last pair. I added the red under the yellow folds on the black leg for more 'pow!'. Unlike my last pair, however, these are an -extremely- snug fit!